Happenings

Not a lot to report from L-town besides a growing psyche for the upcoming trip to the Stikine Ice Cap in SE Alaska. Max and I have recieved incredible support from Leavenworth Mountain Sports (best shop in the east!!), Black Diamond, and Pro Mountain Sports (best shop in the west!). I just want to thank you all so much...we'll see what happens out there.

Me looking really dorky with the 1997 issue of climbing that sparked my interest in the Burkett Needle. Dreams do come true!

Although I don't have a lot of climbing news, that doesn't mean I haven't been getting after it. Sol and I took another shot at the L-Town 15 and failed again. Not to say we didn't have fun. To push yourself in this sport is to accept failure and laugh about how much you are getting your butt kicked at certain times. We nailed 13 of the routes and felt good about the project. Hopefully next year we can claim all 15. I sincerely hope some of these routes see traffic in the future. Hard climbing is not the norm in L-town, but it's out there. Seek and ye shall find...check out Sol's great trip report about the L-town 15 on Cascade Climbers in the rock climbing forum. Fun stuff.

Sol rapping Air Roof (5.11b, an Icicle classic)

I have also spent a few days up at Trundle Dome recently. The salt and pepper granite at this crag is gorgeous and super fun to climb on. Plus, it recieves ample evening shade, a big plus during these hot days of summer.

I also stood on top of Mt. Stuart a few days ago, climbing the Ice Cliff Glacier with Max Hasson. It was nice to spend a mellow day in the alpine. No run outs or scary moments, just enjoying the mountain evironment. The route was really fun (I am a sucker for slogs) and I was able to eye up a future project in the area...but that will have wait for my return from Alaska. This upcoming week includes a nice dose of alpine madness, so stay tuned for more bad pictures and cheesy writing!

Max enjoying fine snow conditions on the approach to the Ice Cliff

The Hassasinator assasinating the upper reaches of the Ice Cliff Glacier

Myself having fun on ice

The radical environment of the Ice Cliff Glacier

Hidden Wall Adventure

A few days ago Dan Cappallini and I took a trip to the seldom visited Hidden Wall in the Leavenworth area. The Hidden Wall lies beyond the Bridge Creek Wall, and like most of the climbing in the heights of the Icicle, the experiance was dirty, scary, and really, really fun. A few years ago Dan and I completed a new line on the Bridge Creek Wall and while descending, spotted an interesting dihedral system on the Hidden Wall. We vowed to return as soon as possible, but it was only a few days ago that we actually got down to business.

The high crags of the Icicle are soooo untapped. The potential for long, hard free climbs is limitless. I truly believe that the Upper Icicle is one of the best adventure climbing areas in the states, right up there with the obscure desert towers of the South West, the Black Canyon of the Gunnison, and other similar zones. Like always, we carried no bolts or pins and still managed to find an unlikely 5.10, five pitch climb, that shot up the center of the formation.

The photo above shows the Bridge Creek Wall. It blows my mind that this 1500 foot wall sees as little traffic as it does. It is one of my favorite walls in the state. So sick. To reach the wall one must face a grueling (fun) hike through blowdowns, loose sand, and talus. To reach the Hidden Wall, you go even further, but it's worth it...

The Hidden Wall

Our route took a line starting directly above the big tree on the right, and followed two distinct half moon dihedrals across the face. Pitch one was painfully dirty, but we persevered and scored on pitch two. This awesome stretch of climbing traversed left and up and contained pumpy climbing through several unlikely features. Awesome!

A few shots of pitch 2

Pitch 3 was also super classy. It is an incredible feeling to be able to climb protectable, traditional rock that has never been traveled before. No tat, no bolts. Just you, the rock, and mountains behind...another day in paradise.

Dan on pitch 3

One of the best reasons for visiting these high crags is for the panaoramic veiws of the major peaks of the Stuart Range.

A shot from the top:

Our long day finished with a few thousand feet of vertical sand surfing and a thorough tick check (we each pulled about ten off our bodies). If you desire dirt, suffering, run outs, and the sheer beauty of untravelled terrain, the upper reaches of the Icicle are for you. Get out there!

The Games Climbers Play

A few years back my freind Renan Ozturk ran around Joshua Tree one winter day and ticked off 20 classic 5.11 routes. The link up was great training for his trip to the Karakoram that year and lately, in preparation for my Burkett Needle expedition (June 9-July 9), I have been playing a similar game here in Leavenworth. A week ago, Sol Werkin and I began a project to climb the 15 most classic (in my humble opinion) 5.11 routes in the area. We have tried the project twice now and what a project it is! If you know the Leavenworth area, then you can imagine the amount of hiking and elevation loss and gain that goes into a day like this. It is freaking huge. The other day we made it through 9 climbs before realizing we would never finish before dark. By my calculations the goal, when accomplished, will take around 13 hrs and will require absolutely no hick ups. No falling, no stopping, no hesitating. Bottom line. The other day we managed to climb:

Tubing At Der Ritterhoff 5.11a

Rock And Rattle 5.11c

M.F. Direct 5.11b

No Such Thing As A Free Lunge 5.11d R

Daz Muzak 5.11d

Bovine Persperation 5.11b

Air Roof 5.11b

Gilligan 5.11d

Domestic Principles 5.11a

The ones we did not get to are:

Mastadon Roof 5.11c

Lazy Boy 5.11c

The Guillotine 5.11d

Pumpline 5.11a

M.J.B Arete 5.11b

Giant Steps 5.11b

I have almost all of these climbs on lock down, but the goal is still one of the most challenging I have ever tried to tackle. All in all, this link up is grade 6 for sure! We plan on making a third attempt here soon, so stay tuned...hopefully the third time around is a charm. Thanks for taking a look!

Heart Of A Stone Monkey

In this modern climbing age, the term "monkey" is thrown about rather flipantly, without a second thought of the meaning or depth behind the label. On a surface level it makes plenty of sense. A monkey likes to climb, I like to climb rocks, therefore I am a Stone Monkey. As easy as 123, or is it?

Before I delve deeper into this subject I must say; this essay has nothing to do with you being or not being a Stone Monkey. The beauty of climbing and living is there are no distinct defenitions. We are what we are, through and through, following our given paths until the very end.

To me, a Stone Monkey exists in a space where climbing is an automatic extenstion of anamalistic routine. Movement is not forced by thought, but rather flows out of a connection with the stone. When I pull onto a wall, a mountain, or a boulder, I am in that very rare spot, where I don't need to think about my actions, wrong or right, responsible or irresponsible; I just know I am where I should be, connecting the right dots, and easily following my instinct. This assuredness comes from years on the rocks, building muscle memory and shaping my mind to see normality in the vertical.

Being a Stone Monkey also inlcudes an undying love for the mediums I move and live in. Watching the sun set crouched on an airy ledge, sleeping best under stars and moon, taking in the beauty of my position mid climb and connecting that power with my present situation. The list goes on, but for me, the intamacy I feel with my surroundings helps me become a part of my environment. I am that piece of lichen undisturbed on a granite slab, that lizard crawling into a crack, that gnarly pine duking it out with a gusty wind. When I climb I try to feel the organic rythm of things, always hoping to be on key with the other members of nature's choir.

Living as a Stone Monkey is as humbling as it is inspiring. The raw experiance of being a productive member of nature always reminds me of how typically fragile life is. A dead sparrow on a belay ledge or the bones of a deer scattered amongst the boulders quickly remind me that for us all it's ashes to ashes and dust to dust. Not to say the world doesn't spin a fair cycle. Life is mostly what I know. Wild flowers in the spring, cougar tracks in a fresh, woodsy snow, or my friends faces around the fire. Again, like the reminders of the end, an inspiration to live to the fullest, each moment, each day.

So there you have it! A clearly inadequate take on an alternative lifestyle. My heart and body are always being molded, leaving evolving shapes of me in different phases of my journey on earth. But the core values always remain the same. Although parts of me yet discovered are sure to blossom and the tree of my life bound to grow, those values are the foundation of my being. So no matter what I become, I will never escape the true Jens, a Stone Monkey for life.

Canyon Life

Nearly every time I go climbing with my friends here in Leavenworth, we can't stop talking about the endless beauty and joy our home area brings. A still pine forest, the calming rush of the Icicle River, and familiar climbs that bring satisfaction every time. Home is a good place, especially for a few magical weeks in the spring and the fall. Conditions for climbing and enjoying life in nature are in perfect niche.

These first few weeks of spring has seen us enjoying the pure movement of the Icicle's classic granite blocks. Bouldering has always been a weakness for me and I'm out to change that. The monkeys in these parts climb hard and fun, so with their provided inspiration I've been making some definite breakthroughs. I am hoping to apply what I'm learning to my routes this year. Taking a deep breath, stepping on the silent stone, precisely executing demanding moves, and crouching on top, savoring the flavor of the moment...that is the bouldering I'm learning to love.


Max capping a nice week of climbing with success on The Dangler

Myself, taking The Physical

Jessica doing a good job making The Physical a bit less physical

Rock Monkeys, as found in their natural habitat

Home Turf

Well, it's been a while since I made a report, but my reasons are valid. I've been climbing like a maniac since I got back home! Leavenworth is currently offering a variety of climbing conditions that I can't help but sample every moment I am not working. The last 10 days it's been ice for breakfast (the ice is gone now) and rock for lunch. Check it.

Max in the morning:

Max in the afternoon:

I also made a winter solo effort on Outer Space. Even after a few successful climbs this winter, I wasn't suprised to fail...back to normal winter climbing in the Cascades! I did my best in full on conditions and that's what counts. It's always confidence inspiring to bail off an icy, snowy wall. I climbed well and got myself out safely. It was a good day. I wish I could have captured the "white ghost" spindrift avalanches that were pouring off the face (and pounding me!). They were very impressive. In the 2.5 hours I was climbing it snowed four inches. Wow!

Another fun outing was an afterwork mixed climb up Eight Mile Buttress with Max. I would guess we climbed about 1500 feet on ice and rock. The features were cool, the air warm, and the ice wet, but we still had fun. Good to practice climbing in all conditions.

And finally, but most intensley was a new route out near Banks Lake. Jessica and I have been tinkering on a beautiful bluff above the lake, cleaning suprisingly nice cracks and enjoying the great scenery. Jessica climbed an awesome crack she had been cleaning with one of the best topout views ever and I made a lead of a route I am calling Scream. It is a very nice, solid mid 5.11/11+ (grades are hard to pin down) crack and face climb. So why the abrasive name? Well, mostly because I am an idiot. I racked up at the base of the climb but forgot to bring THE KEY piece. With the right gear Scream is a very serious line, definetely in the solid R realm, but when I discovered that I had forgotten the saving piece near the top of the climb, I entered X territory. Now, I like to be scared, control my fear, and climb above my gear, but all of the sudden I was in a very serious situation, a bit too serious perhaps. To make a long story short, I screamed in primal fear as I finished the route's last pumpy moves. So if you want to make a repeat, bring TWO green camelots! I hate to make the route seem like something it is not. It does require a certain boldness, but is certainly managable by those who enjoy heady climbing, just make sure you've got what you need.

The climb:

The self portrait on top (funny face, but I was traumatized!):

And the beautiful sunset that calmed me down:

Thanks for checking in!

Nice Day For A White Wedding

Alright, climbing geeks...sorry to disappoint, but this post has nothing to do with the Smith Rock test piece (White Wedding, 13d/14a). My sister got married this past Saturday, an event that was powerfully punctuated by snow, thunder, and lightning. I had been looking forward to the wedding for a long time and it was every bit as wonderful as I imagined it would be.

I showed up at the rehearsal fresh off the plane, bags in hand, Thursday night. I was looking, well, homeless to be honest. Hair all over the place, a beard, and after a day on the plane, I probably wasn't smelling like flowers either. They let me in the church anyway once I convinced them I actually had a part in this (j/k...as always, I was welcomed with open arms). The rehearsal went well and by the next day I was involved in my own extreme makeover.

Saturday saw me looking unusually sharp, so I snapped a few pics, just to prove I actually can clean up. The picture above is of my self, my dad, and my brother. Looking decent, huh?

The ceremony was short, concise, and enjoyable. I gotta admit, I was busting every button. My little sister a married woman...hard to believe, but not at all suprising...it seems like yesterday that we built forts, slept under the Christmas tree, and followed our dad through the Cascades on those early wilderness trips.

After the ceramony we all left for the reception, which was an absolute blast. Great people, lots of energy, food, wine, beer...in short, very fun. We enjoyed each other's company, danced, laughed, and celebrated Andy and Annika's new life together.

One highlight of my night was seeing my sister's ring for the first time. It was gorgeous, the stone originally my grandmother's, then my mother's, now Annika's. Very special.

What a great evening. I sincerely wish nothing but joy and happiness for Annika and Andy. You guys are special as individuals...with each other, unstoppable. Enjoy your life together guys!